It's All About the Garnish!

A Foray Into French

In the past year, my cooking skills have advanced quite a bit. Last year, I had never heard of sriracha, bonito flakes or microgreens. Since getting into competitive cooking, my horizons have broadened considerably and I'm always looking for ways to strech myself. So, when I asked my brother and his pescatarian girlfriend over for dinner, I decided to not only serve a variety of fish I'd never dealt with but to also go with a theme:  French.

Choosing a protein is the easiest way to build a meal plan. It sets the tone for the flavor profile and helps when trying to figure out the rest of the food such as the vegetable and starch. I decided on halibut because it's in season and something that would easily pick up the nuances of whatever I cooked it in. Sure, I could do the whole sear-and-bake route, but that's too easy. Watching the various cooking shows such as Top Chef, I knew that poaching was a great way to keep fish moist. But what about imparting flavor? To me, poaching seems just a little more grandiose than boiling! So, because we all know that the secret to French cooking is 'butter, butter and more butter' I decided to poach the halibut in butter, then broil to make them pretty. But every blast of butter needs an acid to showcase it, I went with a lemon gastrique (equal parts vinegar and sugar, plus the zest and juice of one lemon) to drizzle on top.

But what of the side dishes? They needed to be flavorful to be able to stand up by themselves, but without spice because I didn't want to overpower the delicate nature of the fish. For the vegetable, I went with grilled endives, stuffed with a roasted eggplant and garlic puree, topped with caramelized shallots, d'Aubergine blue cheese and fresh tomatoes. They were delicious, with a smoky flavor and supple texture.

Next, the starch...I didn't want to do something trite, like a rice or bread. I felt they would be too heavy and demand the inclusion of spice to keep them bright. Aha! Vichysoisse! To keep things interesting, I first braised fennel and red onions, then added them to the mix, topping the whole thing off with an herbed creme fraiche. The fennel lent just the right amount of warmth to the cold dish, disappearing just before one could slurp up another spoonful. 

I feel really good about this meal; I stepped outside of my comfort zone and worked with ingredients (fennel, halibut, endives) that hadn't yet become part of my repertoire. I can't wait for the next dinner party!

 
 
 
 

 

Tomato Win!

A couple of weeks ago, I entered the NatureSweet Tomato Challenge, where finalists would be selected based on their essay about cooking with tomatoes. Here's my submission:

Red of flesh, with taut skin and luscious within, tomatoes lend a seductive essence to any kitchen. Bite into them and they explode with flavor, juices running down your chin in all their glory. Ripe and plump, a tomato feels good in the hand, giving an expectation of greatness when brought together with cutting board and knife. An anticipation of deliciousness is brought forth and hangs in the air when tomatoes are roasted, grilled, baked, fried, sautéed, stewed, or stuffed. Their succulent sweetness supersedes other flavors to stand out in a savory sauce, soup or salsa as if to say, “Yes, I am GRAND.” They elevate humble bruschetta to a scrumptious snack and exalt a sandwich to a dish worthy of royalty.  Drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar then tossed with garlic and basil, tomatoes turn any modest repast into a feast, but when paired with a creamy, nutty cheese and crusty, earthy bread, tomatoes turn the dish into the epitome of all that’s right with the world. If my love of cooking with tomatoes would be considered heart, then tomatoes themselves are the soul.

I know it's a little much, but I really, really, really wanted to participate in the cookoff, as it was not only local (Folsom), but it was to be an Iron-Chef-like challenge, with a bag of mystery ingredients  and tomatoes, with an hour time limit. So, when I was selected, I was not only ecstatic, but a little worried. Because Raley's was a sponsor, I spent a couple of days before the event wandering the aisles, taking note of any weird ingredients (tripe, anyone?) they might throw at me, with solutions for each. 

When I got to the venue, I was able to peek at the mystery ingredients and was both relieved and frustrated. They were 'normal' foods such as pine nuts, basil, garlic, olive oil, rosemary, etc. Where were the anchovies? Where were the bunches of kale? Oh well. I did my best and made what I later called "Tuscan Chicken Cakes" that took home the grand prize of $2,500!!!

Here's the recipe:

Tuscan Tomato Chicken Cakes with Asparagus
By Jamie Brown Miller, Napa, CA
Grand Prize Winner – Sacramento Cook-Off

2 ½ bags of NatureSweet Vine Ripened Cherry Tomatoes,divided
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons rosemary, minced
1/2 cup plus four tablespoons olive oil, divided
Salt and pepper to taste
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 pound asparagus, trimmed
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons lemon juice, divided
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1 slice Naan bread
6-8 basil leaves

Dice one pound of tomatoes. In a medium skillet over medium heat, sauté the diced tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, 1/4 cup olive oil, salt and pepper for 5-7 minutes or until garlic is fragrant. Set aside.

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper and use the same pan to cook, covered, on medium high heat until
done, about 10 minutes per side. Set aside to cool.

Sauté asparagus over high heat in a large skillet with 1/4 cup olive oil, salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar and one teaspoon of the lemon juice for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool, then remove ends, reserving the tips.

Using the same pan, toast pine nuts over medium-low heat for 1-2 minutes, or until just beginning to
brown. Set aside to cool, then chop finely.

Shred the chicken breasts by using two forks to pull apart the meat. Place in a medium bowl and add the
sautéed tomatoes, ricotta, feta and pine nuts. Stir to mix well, then form into four cakes. Heat two
tablespoons of olive oil in the pan and cook the chicken cakes on high heat for 3 minutes per side.

Slice the remaining tomatoes, then mix with remaining lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Heat remaining two tablespoons olive oil in the large skillet and toast the naan bread, then cut into
quarters.

Stack basil leaves, then roll tightly, lengthwise. Slice into ribbons.

To assemble, place a slice of Naan bread on to four plates. Top with the chicken mixture. Add equal
amounts of asparagus tips to the chicken cakes, then top with the sliced tomatoes. Sprinkle with the basil and serve.

Makes 4 Servings.